Bearings
Inspect center main bearing and split sleeves for excess wear, nicks, or scratches. Replace if necessary.
Inspect crankshaft rod bearings for excess wear, nicks, or scratches. Replace if necessary.
ASSEMBLY
IMPORTANT: Proceed slowly. Make no forced assemblies unless a pressing operation is called for. All internal components must be perfectly clean and lightly coated with outboard lubricant.
IMPORTANT: Use new wrist pin retaining rings, gaskets, seals, and O-rings during assembly.
Crankshaft
Lubricate the center main bearings and split sleeves with outboard lubricant and install them in their original positions. The split sleeve ring grooves must face toward driveshaft (lower) end of crankshaft when installed.
Place bearing retainer plate, flat side down, on lower end of crankshaft.
- Bearing retainer plate
To install a new lower main bearing: Oil the end of the crankshaft. Use Crankshaft Bearing/Sleeve Installer, P/N 338649, and place bearing onto crankshaft with lettered side facing the tool. Install bearing until it seats on the crankshaft.
To install a new crankshaft sleeve: Oil the end of the crankshaft. Place the sleeve in Crankshaft Bearing/Sleeve Installer, P/N 338649, and drive the sleeve onto the crankshaft until the installer contacts the lower main bearing.
If the installer sticks on the sleeve after installation, thread Slide Hammer, P/N 391008, into installer and pull it off.
IMPORTANT: Inspect sleeve after installation. Sleeve must not be used if surface is damaged.
Lubricate a new driveshaft O-ring and lightly lubricate the crankshaft splines with Moly Lube. Install the O-ring in the sleeve.
Using retaining ring pliers, install lower main bearing retaining ring with sharp edge of ring facing away from bearing.
Lightly coat the outside diameter of a new crankshaft seal with Gasket Sealing Compound. Use Seal Installation Tool, P/N 325453, to install seal in lower crankcase head with extended lip of seal facing down. Coat seal lips with Triple-Guard grease.
- Seal, extended lip
Lightly coat two new O-rings with Gasket Sealing Compound and install on lower crankcase head.
Keep sealer away from oil passage.
- Oil passage
Use threaded rods or Guide Rods, P/N 383175, to align retainer plate with crankcase head. Slide crankcase head onto crankshaft until seated around lower main bearing.
Install new seals on the four bearing retainer screws. Apply Nut Lock to the threads of the screws and torque to 96 to 120 in. lbs. (11 to 13.5 N·m).
Lightly coat the outside diameter of a new upper seal with Gasket Sealing Compound. Use the flat end of Seal Installation Tool, P/N 325453, to install seal flush in upper crankcase head with the lip facing down. Coat the seal lip with Triple-Guard grease.
- Seal installer, P/N 325453
Lightly coat two new O-rings with Gasket Sealing Compound, and install on upper crankcase head. Keep sealer away from oil passage.
- Oil passage
Pistons and Connecting Rods
IMPORTANT: It is very important to notice port and starboard pistons in this engine. All pistons are also marked “exhaust side.”
Using these marks, orient the pistons with the correct cylinders and mark the bottom wrist pin hole with a permanent marker.
- Bottom wrist pin holes
IMPORTANT: It is also very important that the connecting rods are installed with the alignment dots facing up, toward the flywheel.
Apply outboard lubricant to the wrist pin bearings. Install the bearings in the wrist pin bore. Place connecting rod with bearing into the piston with the alignment dots facing the top of the piston.
- Alignment dots
Oil the wrist pin bore and wrist pin.
Install wrist pin through piston and connecting rod.
Use Wrist Pin Cone, P/N 331913, and Driver, P/N 396747, to install new wrist pin retaining rings.
in each wrist pin hole. Gap of retaining ring faces away from notch in piston.
- Gap in retaining ring
- Notch in piston
Repeat steps for each piston.
Installing Pistons
When all pistons and connecting rods are assembled, install piston ring sets. Be sure rings are installed in the cylinder used to test ring end gap.
IMPORTANT: Be sure gap of ring fits squarely around dowel pin.
IMPORTANT: Before continuing, make sure that all Gel-Seal II has been removed from the cylinder block and crankcase mating flanges. If traces of hardened Gel-Seal II are left, main bearings could be misaligned.
Rotate cylinder block so cylinder head surface is parallel with floor.
Coat pistons, rings, cylinder walls, and ring com pressor with outboard lubricant.
Center connecting rod in piston and locate piston rings on dowel pins. Place appropriate ring compressor on piston.
Slide piston and rod assembly into the correct cylinder, as marked during disassembly. Guide connecting rod through cylinder block to avoid scratching cylinder wall.
Repeat steps for each piston.
Cylinder Head
Lightly coat both sides of a new cylinder head gasket with Gasket Sealing Compound. Position gasket on cylinder block following instructions printed on gasket.
Install cylinder head with the thermostat facing flywheel. Apply outboard lubricant to screw threads and install the retaining screws. DO NOT use sealant on threads.
Following sequence on cylinder head, torque all screws in stages to 17 to 19 ft. lbs. (23 to 26 N·m).
Repeat steps for opposite cylinder head.
Crankshaft and Connecting Rods
Before installing crankshaft, lightly coat the cylinder block upper and lower crankcase head flange surfaces with a thin layer of Gel-Seal II.
Rotate the cylinder block so the crankcase mating flange is facing upward.
Push all pistons to the top of cylinders. Remove the numbered connecting rod caps and hold the connecting rods to the outside with rubber bands.
Gently lower the crankshaft into place.
- Orient all crankcase seal ring gaps facing up.
- Tap the crankshaft upward with a rawhide mallet to seat crankshaft and lower crankcase head.
- Locate each main bearing on its dowel pin. A mark placed on the bearing race opposite the dowel pin hole will help in the alignment process.
- Loosely secure upper and lower crankcase heads with two screws.
Lubricate each crankpin and bearing assembly with outboard lubricant. Slowly pull connecting rod up to crankshaft and install bearing halves.
Lubricate rod cap screw threads and under screw head mating surface with a light coat of Triple-Guard grease. Apply outboard lubricant to screw hole threads in rod, and to screw head mating surface on cap.
Align dot on rod cap with dot on the connecting rod. Install rod cap screws finger tight (NO MORE than 6 in. lbs. (1 N·m) maximum).
IMPORTANT: Be sure alignment dot on rod cap matches dot on rod and that both dots face flywheel.
- Alignment dots
IMPORTANT: : Torquing the screws without Alignment Fixture, P/N 396749, or using an incorrect procedure could cause permanent damage to the connecting rod and crankshaft. To maintain accurate torque values, keep torque wrench extension length to a minimum.
Install Rod Cap Alignment Fixture, P/N 396749, before tightening rod cap screws. Align the flat (marked “SET”) on the rod adjustment stop with the arrow on the frame. Position the stop at the highest setting (two lines showing). Rotate the adjustment knob 180° to lock the stop in position.
- Adjustment stop, highest setting
Secure restraining jaw “A” and forcing jaw “B” to frame.
Restraining Jaw “A”
Forcing Jaw “B”
Apply a light coat of outboard lubricant to the corners of the connecting rod and rod cap. Place frame on connecting rod using the following procedure:
• Position frame onto the connecting rod so the contact area of the jaw is centered on the side of the rod.
• Tighten forcing screw until jaws contact connecting rod.
• Slide frame down until adjustment stop contacts the rod cap. The groove lines on the jaws must be centered on the rod/crankpin diameter.
- Adjustment stop
- Groove line
• Tighten the forcing screw to a torque of 23 in. lbs. (2.5 N·m).
IMPORTANT: Make sure that frame is squarely in position and that rod and cap are aligned.
Loosen both rod cap screws one-quarter turn.
Use Torquing Socket, P/N 346187, to tighten rod cap screws in three stages:
• Apply an initial torque of 40 to 60 in. lbs. (5 to 7 N·m) to both rod cap screws.
• Torque screws to 20 to 22 ft. lbs. (27 to 30 N·m).
• Apply a final torque of 60 to 65 ft. lbs. (81 to 88 N·m).
Loosen forcing screw and remove the frame.
Test at least three corners of the rod and cap joint with a pick. Joint must be smooth with no step.
Repeat steps for remaining connecting rods.
Crankcase
Thoroughly clean and degrease the mating flanges of the crankcase and cylinder block with a non-petroleum based solvent, such as isopropyl alcohol or acetone, and let air dry.
IMPORTANT: DO NOT allow solvent to get on internal components. Clean only the mating flanges.
Use a small brush to dab a thin, even coat of Gel-Seal II sealant to the cylinder block mating flange. The application must not come within 1/4 in. (6.4 mm) of seal rings or bearings.
IMPORTANT: Gel-Seal II has a shelf life of at least one year when stored at room temperature.
Test the Gel-Seal II or replace it if the age of the tube cannot be determined. Using old Gel-Seal II could cause crankcase air leaks.
Lightly coat the upper and lower crankcase head flange surfaces with a thin layer of Gel-Seal II.
IMPORTANT: : If Locquic Primer is used, crankcase halves must be assembled and tightened within ten minutes after the Gel-Seal II has been applied.
Lower the crankcase into place. Install main bearing screws and nuts finger tight.
When the crankcase is seated, install and firmly seat both crankcase taper pins.
Torque main bearing screws and nuts in stages. Begin with the center screws and work outward in a spiral pattern to final torque:
| Upper Two Main Bearing Nuts | 38 to 42 ft. lbs.(52 to 57 N·m) |
| Main Bearing Screws | 48 to 52 ft. lbs.(65 to 70 N·m) |
Install the crankcase flange screws and torque to 84 to 108 in. lbs. (9.5 to 12 N·m). Apply Permatex No. 2 to screws where threaded hole is open to crankcase.
Test that the crankshaft spins freely without binding.
Apply Nut Lock to the upper and lower crankcase head screws. Install and torque screws to 96 to 120 in. lbs. (11 to 13.5 N·m).
IMPORTANT: After powerhead has been assembled, allow at least two hours for Gel-Seal II to cure before running outboard.
Install shift linkage assembly in boss at bottom of crankcase. Install shift rod lever and tighten retaining screw 60 to 84 in. lbs. (7 to 9.5 N·m).
Apply Nut Lock to threads of shift arm shoulder screw. Install and tighten to 120 to 144 in. lbs. (14 to 16 N·m).
- Shoulder screw
- Shift rod lever retaining screw
Connect all crankcase recirculating hoses. Refer to Recirculation Check Valve and Hose Routings Diagram on p. 202.
Install the throttle body and reed plate assemblies. Refer to Intake Manifold on p. 191.
Install the complete ignition, electrical, and fuel systems.
DANGER To prevent fire and explosion hazard, make sure all electrical and ignition wiring is routed and clamped in original positions.
